Catalogue
***Orders are now closed for our 2011 bare root season. Keep an eye out for our new catalogue in March 2012***
***Orders are now closed for our 2011 bare root season. Keep an eye out for our new catalogue in March 2012***
A hearty welcome to Thistlebrook. I'm Justin Russell, a gardening journalist and nurseryman with a passion for growing organic fruit and vegies. Join my family and I in a G.I.Y. (Grow It Yourself) adventure producing food and living the good life on our two acre smallholding in the hills north of Toowoomba, Queensland.
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{ 31 comments… read them below or add one }
Hi
I am looking to plant some heritage apples this coming winter and was interested in finding out which varieties you will have available. Also, do you mail order to Sydney ?
Thanks
Amanda
Hi Amanda,
We offer mail order to every state of Australia bar WA and TAS. Our 2010 catalogue will be available from early March, and at this stage is likely to include the following apple varieties:
Beauty of Bath, Blue Pearmain, Catshead, Cornish Aromatic, Court of Wick, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Fuji, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Jonathan, Keswick Codlin, Lord Lambourne, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, Pine Golden Pippin, Pink Lady, Pomme de Neige, Rhode Island Greening, Ribston Pippin, Rome Beauty, Tydeman’s Early Worcester.
Full descriptions will be in the catalogue.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi,
I am very keen to plant some heritage apples along with some other fruit trees. We have plently of room. We live just outside Allora. Could you please send me your new 2010 catalogue when available, and could you suggest which varieties would suit our area.
Kind regrds
Mel
Hi, we have a few acres in Vale View, on the black soil, & I am keen to expand our orchard plantings. I would love to grow some apples & pears, raspberries & blueberries, but I believe that the apples don’t do so well in the black soil. Is this true, & are there some varieties that would be better than others. We like the crisp, crunchy, sweet red ones, & crunchy tart green apples.
Thanks,
Leanne.
Hi Justin and Kylie,
I am from Denmark in WA and was interested in the heritage apples (eg Lord Lambourne), but see you don’t go through WA quarantine. I did recently buy some Tassie potatoes (pink eyes) from a grower in Tas who sent them through AQIS here- a few initial problems, but OK.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark,
Apple trees are allowed conditional entry into WA, but unfortunately the conditions are generally too stringent to warrant going through the process. See this link for more info on some of the fees etc involved. We’d love to be able to send our trees to WA and spread the heritage gene pool as wide as possible, but we’re a very small nursery and it’s just not worth the hassle and expense as this stage.
Sorry I can’t be of more help.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi,
We are interested in planting a small family garden and hope to add some fruit trees. What kind would you recommend for out climate and can the bareroot trees be shipped to our state, Hawaii?
Thank you,
Jae
Hi Jae,
Unfortunately we only ship plants within Australia, and though I could guess regarding Hawaii’s general climate, I don’t really have a clue about the various microclimates scattered across the islands. My advice would be to visit a good local nursery. They should have an intimate understanding of what trees will and won’t work in your corner of the world.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi Justin and Kylie,
Thank you for the wonderful trees and canes! My order arrived in excellent condition and the trees where much taller than I was expecting. I’ve planted them out over the week and now we’re getting some lovely rain. So it should all go well. Thank you also for your assistance in choosing the best varieties for my garden, and for offering advice about espalier options etc.
I’ve recommended your website to some of my work colleagues; hopefully they’ll pick up some of your remaining stock.
Thanks again, C
Hi Justin,
Could we grow the moorpark apricot or dwarf ‘pink lady’ apple here in Brisbane? I grew up in the southern N.Z. and miss these fruits! Would like to try them here. If possible how long would it be before they bear fruit?
Thank you.
Caroline
Thanks for the question Caroline. Brisbane is a tricky climate for growing any temperate fruit because of the lack of chilling hours. Deciduous fruit trees need a certain amount of cold in winter to know when the should enter dormancy and form fruit buds. As a rough guide, Brisbane would generally have about 150 chilling hours, perhaps a bit more in the western suburbs and Ipswich. To be honest, I think you’ll struggle with both apricots and apples, but if you are keen to give one a try, I’d actually recommend apples. Pink Lady is lower chill than most, being bred in Manjimup WA, but you might have better success with something like Anna, which is genuinely low chill and was bred in Israel. You’d need to team it with Dorsett Golden (bred in the Bahamas of all places) for pollination.
Other fruit that would be worth trying in Brisbane are low chill peaches/nectarines, persimmons, low chill pears, figs, mulberries and Japanese plums.
Hope that gives you some ideas.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi there, Thanks for your great site. I understand there are many variables that effect fruiting trees. I am keen to try and grow some cooler climate type fruit trees and would like to create a frost pocket on my block. Can you give me some tips as to how to achieve that? many thanks and kind regards, p
P,
There’s no simple solution to what you’re proposing, unfortunately. For starters, you will never create a frost pocket if your climate isn’t cold enough as temperatures won’t dip far enough below zero, and secondly, if you do have a cold enough climate you’ll probably already experience some frost whether you’ve tried to create a frost pocket or not. The other issue is that genuine cold climate trees such as cherries and European plums require at least 800 chilling hours over winter to induce dormancy, set fruit buds and then break dormancy in spring. If you need to create a frost pocket then I suspect your climate probably isn’t chilly enough for these trees.
My advice in terms of climate is to mostly accept what you’ve got and work with it. If you get 40 frosts per year and experience temps as low as -10 like we do here at Thistlebrook, great, you can grow nearly all the cold climate trees that need a genuine winter. If you get no frost or just a few nights under zero per year, you should be able to successfully grow citrus, bananas and pawpaws which are very difficult or tend to struggle in a colder climate. You may want to manipulate things a little bit through the placement of walls and hedges for example, but generally, you’ll have the most fun and best results with plants that suit your conditions.
Hope that helps,
Justin
Hello. Thank you for your fascinating web site. I was just wondering when your 2011 catalogue will be available. Regards, Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Our 2011 catalogue will be released on the 1st of March, and will be available for download from this website. Orders are welcome from then on, with delivery/collection from late June or early July, until the season closes at the end of September.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi! I was wondering do you have cherry trees, My friend lives at Stanthorpe and I would like to get a couple for her place, what are the varities and are they hard to look after, do all cherries weep, if not are the weeping varities fruit bearers
Regards
Michele
Hi Michele,
Thanks for the question, and the answer is yep, we do have edible cherry trees in our catalogue. The varieties we have this year are Lapins, Stella, Sunburst, Napoleon, and Blackboy. All are suitable for Stanthorpe, but none are weeping cherries. Weepers such as Prunus “Cheals Weeping”or Prunus x subhirtella “Pendula”are solely ornamental and don’t produce edible fruit.
Let me know if you need more info.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi,
We’re in Melbourne and in a rental property with a huge Westerly facing rear yard. We already have set up a vegie patch but I really want to grow some fruit trees. I have bought some big half wine barrels to plant fruit trees into, I love the idea of getting a pear tree, apple tree and fig tree but would like to know if its viable to do in this manner and if not how you suggest is the best way to go about it. I’d love to plant them straight into the ground but that will have to wait till we own our own house.
Thank you for your time and look forward to you getting back to me.
Cheers
I would to buy a lime tree If you can supply,please advise veriaty
cost and frieght Thank you Robert
I live in Orange (2800) cold climate I successfulygrow lemons and
would like a lime as well
Regards Robert
Hi Justin
I was wondering if you can help me. My mother-in-law had a beautiful thin skinned lemon tree in her backyard which she grew from seed and she told me the variety was ‘sweet rind’. Unfortunately, she passed away four years ago. The tree was around 50 years old and still looked good as she regularly fed it and pruned it up to her death. We had to sell her house but took a couple of lemons hoping to be able to grow a tree from the seeds.
One of the seeds took and has grown into a beautiful tree but does not bear fruit. I understand that this can be a problem with fruit trees grown from seed.
Do you know where we could possibly obtain a heritage lemon tree of this variety?
Cheers
Kerry and Ron
How are you?Hope you are well?
I want to grow some dwarf fruit trees.We have just bought a house on the Goldcoast with large section with plenty of room,when i was young my grandparents had lots of fruit trees in NZ,Im looking to buy them toward the end of may.can you please recommend Apple,Plum(im looking for dark red tartish kind?),Pear,Lemon,Manderin,Peach and Nectarine,Mulberry as well.I will be geting two of each tree.
If you could get back to me by the end of April please that would be a great help.
Thank you for your time.
Tristan Causer
Hi Robert,
We don’t sell any citrus trees sorry, only bare roooted deciduous trees. Your best bet would be to try one of your local nurseries, as they should have citrus available on a cold tolerant rootstock.
Cheers,
Justin
Hi Kerry,
There is evidence of a “Sweet Rind” lemon in extistence in the late 1800′s, but I don’t know of any nursery that currently sells this variety, unfortunately. The good news is that lemon trees generally come true to type when grown from seed, so odds are that while the plant in your garden won’t be an exact clone of your mother in law’s tree, it should closely resemble it. The downside to seed grown citrus is that they have a prolonged juvenile period. Fruting might not commence until the tree is 10 or more years old, and it’s likely that the tree will get reasonably large and thorny while it’s developing. But if you’re prepared to wait until it sets fruit, you may well end up with a very nice lemon.
To get a genetic clone of the original tree, you would need to obtain some branches from the current property owner and then have someone bud graft it for you (or have a go yourself). A grafted lemon should start fruiting in it’s third year.
Hope that helps,
Justin
Hi,
I live in Melbourne and plan to try out some dwarf fruit trees in my smallish backyard.
Happy with the Jiro Dwarf Persimmon and and the Apple Dwarfs. Are dwarfs available for Cherry and Fig. Alternatively, can these be grown espalier against a north facing 1.5m high brick fence?
Thanks.
Doug
Hi Justin,
I stumbled upon your lovely website while looking for some information about growing rhubarb. I am currently growing Glaskins Perpetual in a raised bed. It grows well but dries out very quickly, and I am finding that when I harvest the stalks they are also somewhat dry. Too much sun, not enough water? I live in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas in Northern California, so spring and fall are mild but we have hot summers. The plants face west so they get plenty of summer sun – would you recommend transplanting them into a shadier spot? Or maybe give the plants some shade with shade cloth?
Also, I am looking for some of the red variety and am finding it extremely difficult to locate. Your description of Highfields Ever Red sounds perfect! Do you ship to California? Looks like you are sold out for the year…can I get on your waiting list for next season?
Thanks, Denise
Thanks for getting in touch Denise. It does indeed sound like your rhubarb is a bit dry. The best aspect for rhubarb in a Mediteranean climate like yours would be morning sun to around 11am, then afternoon shade. If you’re planning to move the plant, do it during winter/early spring, and ensure you mix lots of well rotted manure and compost into the planting hole. This will help to retain moisture but allow for good drainage. Even here, where our summers rarely top 35C (95F), I find that I need to throw some shadecloth over the plants on hot days and provide irrigation every day or two. Those big, parasol leaves need lots of water!
In terms of Highfields Ever Red, it is a good strain of the variety Ever Red that’s been selected and grown by a local market gardener. We sell the plants as dormant crown divisions in winter, but unfortunately quarantine regulations prevent us from shipping live plants overseas. I’m not sure where you might be able to find good red varieties in your area, but one option might be to look for rhubarb at local farmer’s markets, then ask the farmer if he/she might be willing to sprare a crown or two from their farm. Some will be glad to share.
Best wishes in your search.
Justin
Thanks for your response Justin. Maybe some shadecloth would do the trick, so I don’t have to transplant the plants. Can I just toss a square of shadecloth over the plants? That’s a great idea, asking a grower at our local farmer’s market if he would share a crown…thanks for the suggestion!
Another question – I have three plants growing in one end of an 8′x2′x12″ deep raised bed. I probably planted them too close together to begin with, as they are each getting quite large and their leaves (we call them elephant ears) overlap. Can these plants stay in the raised bed for years, or will they eventually need to go in the ground (we have gophers)? If they can stay in the raised bed, do you recommend spacing them out a bit, so the leaves don’t overlap so much?
Thanks again, this is a valuable resource and I appreciate your interest.
Denise
Hi Justin & Kylie,
The five trees we purchased from you earlier this year are all doing really well – three are flowering wonderfully, with the other two just showing some sign of life.
So far, so good, with our little experiment here in Brisbane with the apples!
Oh, the the Strawberries are also on their way!
Thanks for all your help,
Ben
I live in burpengary the outskirts of brisbane, I’m am very interested in trying some high chill stone fruit. Could u please let me know were I can find some? As I have been told the taste is a lot better?
Thanks Richard
Hi Richard,
Our nursery sells a wide range of high chill stonefruit. Orders start in early March and deliveries begin in early July. I’d doubt you’ll have much success with the high chill varieties though, as many need upwards of 800 chilling hours in winter but Brisbane has 100-300 hours of chill (Burpengary would be on the lower end of the scale). Odds are, high chill trees will fail to enter dormancy properly during autumn, and flowering will be sproadic or non-existent during spring. Low chill varieties tend to flower and ripen very early, which means that never get a decent chance to develop lots of flavour. But they really are your best bet in a subtropical cllimate.
Hope that helps,
Justin