Take a drive around some of the older parts of Toowoomba at the moment and it won’t take long to have your breath stolen by a crepe myrtle tree in full, spectacular flower. Alongside jacarandas and liquidambars, crepe myrtles are one of the Garden City’s most popular trees, and for good reason. Not only do the trees extend the spring flower season into mid-summer, they absolutely adore Toowoomba’s weather and soil.

Historically the most commonly grown species was the common crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica. Despite the suggestion of a subcontinental heritage in the botanical name, this species actually hails from China and Korea and was introduced to the southern states of America in the late 1700′s. Lagerstroemia indica is a fine plant, but it has two major faults: a vulnerability to the fungal disease powdery mildew and a tendency to send up suckers, especially if the roots are disturbed.

To overcome these problems, plant breeders have selectively crossed Lagerstroemia indica with the Japanese crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia fauriei. These hybrids are much improved plants, being more cold tolerant, mildew resistant and sucker free than the old L. indica. The most readily available are sold under the “Indian Summer” banner. They bear the names of native American tribes and are available in a range of sizes from medium sized trees, such as ‘Natchez’ and ‘Tuscarora’, to distinctly shrub-like plants such as ‘Tonto’. Even smaller are some of the “Symphony of Colour by Chopin” range of crepe myrtles. The prostrate variety ‘New Orleans’ will grow to just half a metre tall by about a metre and a half wide – prefect for planting as part of a mixed shrub border.

The obvious reason for growing crepe myrtles is their flowers. Formed on large panicles in saturated shades of crimson, mauve, pink and white, the blooms are a highlight of summer and welcome in the New Year like a natural fireworks display. But you’d be wrong to dismiss the crepe myrtle as a one trick pony. In my view they are among the best four-season plants being grown on the Downs.

During autumn, the foliage turns incredibly radiant shades of orange and red, and in winter, the mottled, exfoliating bark provides welcome interest. The display is especially attractive on tall, multi-trunked specimens that have had the lower branches pruned off during the first few years after planting. Even in spring crepe myrtles are pretty – new foliage on the branch tips starts crimson, and gradually turns green. There really is something interesting happening the whole year round.

Beside being wonderfully ornamental, crepe myrtles are also incredibly tough. Thanks to the Lagerstroemia fauriei genetics, hybrid varieties are easily able to cope with the heaviest frosts the Downs has to offer and the trees are supremely drought tolerant, once established. Unlike some drought tolerant plants, which perform very poorly in wet conditions, I’m happy to report that the hybrid crepe myrtles will withstand soggy soil for weeks at a time. I’ve got two young specimens planted either side of the front entrance to my property, and despite going under last year in the floods, both plants survived. Crepe myrtles won’t grow in a swamp, but they will do well in all but the heaviest Downs soils.

Two quick tips for growing the best looking trees. Firstly, don’t fall the the temptation to prune crepe myrtles heavily each winter in order to produce flowers. Pruned trees send up lots of watershoots, and the result is a disfigured tree that would have otherwise developed a lovely natural form. If size is an issue and you want a smaller tree, choose one of the smaller growing varieties. Secondly, to prevent powdery mildew on the species and Chopin range of crepe myrtles, plant them in a position with good airflow. Crepe myrtles really aren’t suited to being planted in tight, hedge-like spaces, and benefit from some space to show off.

If you’re after an outstanding deciduous tree or shrub that’s easy to manage and very floriferous, consider planting a crepe myrtle. The Indian Summer varieties in particular are highly gardenworthy plants. And if anyone from Toowoomba Regional Council is reading, please, plant crepe myrtles more often as street trees. They are worthy of being put on public display, and just imagine the sight if the Garden City was lit up each January by the blooms of thousands of crepe myrtles. There are quite a few around the place, I know, but if Toowoomba is famous for its jacarandas, it deserves to be equally famous for its crepe myrtles and their summer spectacle.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 21st January 2011. Photo by Justin Russell, crepe myrtle outside the Hampton Visitor Centre.

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Australia’s 10,000 registered beekeepers are worried. In the last 20 years hive numbers across the country have halved, and the industry is currently battening the hatches for a perfect storm of multiple pressures on the European honeybee.

Chief among their concerns is the phenomenon known as Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD). This occurs when bees simply vanish from their hives leaving the capped brood and queen in abandoned colonies. CCD was first observed in Pennsylvania in 2006, and losses in North America and Europe have averaged about 30 to 40 percent in the years since. It is important to note that no cases of Colony Collapse Disorder have been recorded in Australia.

Does that mean we can rest on our laurels. Definitely not! Beekeepers are worried that a major outbreak of the feral Asian honeybee, which was first detected in Queensland in 2007, will bring into the country the parasite Varroa destructor, a mite that has been implicated in CCD overseas. In the long term, however, both varroa and the Asian honeybee can be controlled. The issue that really petrifies beekeepers is the growing use of insecticides.

Editor of the Australasian Beekeeper Journal, Des Cannon, wrote in a recent editorial that he regards “the use of pesticides in our environment as the single biggest threat to the survival of beekeeping”. Cannon singles out for special attention a class of chemicals called neonicotinoids, so called new generation insecticides that have gained widespread usage since they were introduced in the mid 1990′s.

Neonics, as these chemicals are commonly known, include the popular garden insecticides Confidor and Conguard. Both products are systemic. This means that although neonics can be applied in a variety of ways – as a soil drench, a foliar spray, in granular form or as a seed treatment – they work by being absorbed into a plant’s vascular system where they are able to attack the nervous system of any insect that ingests the chemical.

Herein lies the problem with neonics such as imidacloprid and clothianidin: they are extremely toxic to bees. No big deal says Bayer CropSciences, the multinational company that sold more than a billion dollars worth of neonicotinoid products last year. They insist that bees spend little time foraging on infected pollen, that little if any neonic insecticide finds its way into hives, and if it does, the concentration is so low that the effect on hive health is negligible.

These claims are called into question by the findings of a Purdue University study released last week in the peer reviewed journal Plos One. Researchers found damning evidence that bees from hives located near neonic treated cornfields were exposed to insecticide in various ways throughout their foraging period, and were actively foraging on maize pollen.

Most alarmingly though, the research indicated that the neonic clothianidin was present on bees found dead at the entrance to hives as well as in pollen collected by the bees and stored inside the hive. Considering both imidacloprid and clothianidin are almost universally used in Australia as seed treatments for canola (some of which is also genetically modified), corn and other crops, beekeepers have every right to be concerned about the future of their livelihood.

So what can we as gardeners do to support the local honeybee population. Firstly, we ought to abandon formal style gardens for the environmental folly that they are and embrace a more relaxed, cottage style dominated by flowering plants such as daisies (among the best bee attracting plants), clovers, fruit trees, herbs and natives including grevilleas and dwarf eucalypts.

Secondly, and most importantly, gardeners should cease using imidacloprid and other neonicotinoid chemicals. Most pest problems can be solved in the long run by creating a biodiverse garden full of a broad range of plants, along with organic soil building techniques. The latter will help boost the immune response of plants, making them naturally resistant to any minor pest outbreaks that might occur.

Paul Watson of the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society made an interesting comment on an Australian chat show last year. He said that “worms are more important than people, and the reason for that: worms can live on the earth without people, but we can’t live on the earth without worms.” Whether you love or hate what Watson does each summer in the Southern Ocean, his comment is spot on.

We’re not the centre of the universe. We can’t live on the earth without worms any more than we can without honeybees, so the sooner we get over ourselves, and drop the sense of entitlement that has infested all corners of our privileged society, the better.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 28th January 2011. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

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January 10, 2012. Two thirty in the afternoon. Hot and dry. I write this week’s Secret Garden on a day that’s almost a total contrast to January 10, 2011. This time a year ago, the heavens had opened. Water was pouring across my garden, over the front gate and down my dirt road like a muddy, raging torrent. We were isolated for a couple of days. But, other’s weren’t so lucky, and I offer my thoughts to those still coming to terms with the loss of loved ones last January.

With such a momentous start to the year, 2011 was always bound to be full of highs and lows. From a gardening point of view, the roller coaster ride was no more evident than in the vegie patch. The humidity and full soil moisture profile brought about some miserable results in some plants, but others cropped magnificently. Joy and pain are flip sides of the same coin, so it follows that success and failure are inseparable in the garden as well. But I don’t want to focus on the negatives. I want to share a list of plants that performed brilliantly in my garden last year, just in case you want to have a go at growing them at your place.

Tomato ‘Wapsipinicon Peach’

It may have a confusing tongue twister of a name, but this small, yellowish tomato offered a moment of quiet clarity when I took my first bite. The flavour was magnificent, right up there with my other favourite tomatoes ‘Green Zebra’ and ‘Jaune Flamee’. Unfortunately the plant suffered badly in the wet weather (find me a tomato that didn’t!), so I’m trialling it again this summer in the hope that this fuzzy delight from Iowa proves to be the complete package.

Potato ‘Dutch Cream’

I’ve always had a thing for a good spud, so it came as no real surprise that just yesterday I learned that my grandpa farmed potatoes in the Wangaratta area upon his arrival in Australia in 1924. I wonder whether he was familiar with the old variety ‘Dutch Cream’? If so, I’d suppose that he too was a fan of this oval shaped tuber and its exceptionally rich, creamy flesh. Unlike some of my other spuds, which suffered from potato scab for the first time last year, my Dutch Creams came through with flying colours. A terrific potato!

Kale ‘Red Russian’

For a few years now the darling of kale growers and posh restaurants has been Tuscan kale or cavolo nero. While I’m in no doubt that this is a superb plant, it’s virtues are easily matched by it’s Eastern cousin, ‘Red Russian’ (aka Siberian). Like all kales, Red Russian is incredibly nutritious, but it doesn’t taste “cabbagey” and is actually tender enough to be used in a leafy salad. It is unfazed by frosty mornings, has handsome foliage, and grows very easily from seed. Red Russian must be a contender for one of the best two or three plants I grew in 2011.

Beetroot ‘Cylindra’

If you’d rather pickle your own beetroot than purchase the canned stuff, this is the variety for you. As the name suggests, it forms a long cylindrical root that lays beautifully on a chopping board and is so easy to slice that even the most inept cook could produce a decent result. While not quite my favourite beetroot for roasting (Bull’s Blood takes that honour) it is a very good cropper that produces super-high yields per square metre of space. Love my beets, and this is a really good doer.

Carrot ‘Lubyana’

A Slovenian heirloom with yellow skin and flesh that performed brilliantly for me in 2011. I’m yet to taste an heirloom carrot that isn’t superior in flavour to the boring old orange carrots your get in the shops, but in the case of Lubyana, the difference is palpable. Eaten soon after being pulled, the flesh is has a crisp bite and is beautifully sweet. Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital and largest city, is described by Lonely Planet as one of the most wonderful and relaxed cities in Europe. The carrot that bears her name is a fitting tribute.

You might find some of these vegies as seedlings at your local nursery, but I grew them all from seed and encourage you to do the same. My seed suppliers of choice are The Diggers Club, The Lost Seed Company, Eden Seeds and Green Harvest. All the best for your vegie patch this year. May the weather be gentler than it was on that fateful day in January 2011.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 31st December 2011.

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Agapanthus. Toowoomba’s aggies have looked better than ever this summer, reminding all and sundry how gardenworthy they actually are. Recently released ‘Queen Mum’ is a beauty.

Black. Apparently, black is the trendy colour for 2012. So if trend-following is your thing, use it judiciously for strong focal points and highlights. Don’t get too sombre though, will you.

Community. All over the world community gardening initiatives are booming, but it’s a trend that’s failed to gain much traction on the Downs – yet. I hope 2012 is the year.

Digging. No dig is all the rage at the moment, but next year gardeners will rediscover the practicality, and sheer joy, of digging. As long as you don’t overdo it, the soil will be fine.

Edibles. Growing, cooking and eating your own food is one of the most deeply satisfying things in you’ll ever do, full stop.

Front Yards. Unlike in America, where planting vegies in front yards can get you arrested, there’s no reason in Australia why you can’t have a food garden in the front yard. Make the most of what is often a wasted space.

Grapes. Yes, they sometimes suffer badly from mildew in our wet summer climate, but they’re such versatile and useful plants that no garden should be without a vine or two.

Humus. Decomposed organic matter nothing less than one of the essential building blocks of our society. We must compost and build soil if said society is going to thrive in the future.

Ignorance. It’s not bliss. All of us, new and experienced gardeners alike, need to keep learning, keep pushing the boundaries, and always keep our minds open to fresh ideas.

June. It might be high summer, but we’re past the longest day and light will gradually decrease until the winter solstice in June. Don’t panic. Embrace the seasons as a wonderful gift.

Kitchen. The garden to kitchen trend is booming, but with climate change, peak oil and financial stress the themes of the decade, it will become a permanent part of our culture.

Lilies. I grew proper Asiatic lilies for the first time this spring. They were breathtaking. Can’t wait for round two in late November 2012.

Miscanthus. Ornamental grasses are among the most under-rated plants in the garden. Among the best are the various Miscanthuses, especially ‘Gracillimus’. A stunning plant.

Nandina. Plants this tough are hard to come by, but what I love the most about nandina is its beauty. The variety Gulf Stream makes a lovely hedge with stunning winter colour.

Originality. One thing I’d love to see in 2012 is a whole bunch of gardeners abandoning the trends and charting a course that is unique to personality and place.

Poultry. Chooks are rapidly becoming an essential part of the backyard again, and thank goodness for that! Why wouldn’t you want a cheap source of fertility and the best eggs ever?

Quiet. Here’s some prime advice for 2012: find time to down tools and simply sit in the garden enjoying some peace and quiet. Use the garden as a place of refuge.

Radical. Its time for gardening to strip off its conservative tweed jacket (as much as I love tweed) and get radical. To me this means bypassing the industrial food system by growing as much of your own as possible.

Sheds. Once they housed toxic chemicals, but these days they’re being reclaimed for better purposes. As more people grow their own, more sheds are being used to store the harvest.

Tools. I was lucky enough to photograph Cloudlake’s collection of garden tools this year. It confirmed to me that old tools are beautiful and so solidly built they’ll last centuries.

Usefulness. Arts and Crafts designer William Morris once said “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful”. Same goes for gardens.

Vaccinium. Blueberries (aka Vaccinium corymbosum) do well in the red soil parts of the Downs. They’re highly ornamental, easy to grow and the fruit is a knockout!

Weeds. Plants growing where they aren’t welcome can, literally, be a thorn in the side. Glyphosate offers convenience, but organic options are becoming available. Seek them out.

Xenophobia. As much as I love Australian plants, I see no reason for our gardens to resemble the bush. We’re an eclectic people, and our gardens ought to reflect our cultural diversity.

Youth. Gardening has traditionally been the domain of retirees, but things are changing. More and more young adults are taking up the spade, which is fantastic. To these young gardeners, don’t overlook the wisdom of your elders.

Zingiber. Ginger as an easy plant grow in a subtropical climate, but it’s possible to get an annual crop in cooler areas. Plant a rhizome in rich soil and water regularly. Harvest in early winter.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 31st December 2011.

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The major pests in my garden aren’t insects or diseases, which are mostly kept in check by building biodiversity and other organic methods – they’re animals. Some are native, like possums, parrots and bandicoots, others are introduced, such as hares and rabbits. All have their own appetite for destruction.

Possums wreak havoc in the vegie garden. Silverbeet seems to be a special favourite, but few leafy plants are spared. In some years they even develop a taste for rhubarb, eating it down to the ground despite the fact that’s it’s supposed to be poisonous to mammals. Bandicoots aren’t quite as bad, but if they do get into the vegie patch they dig up seedlings in search of worms.

Parrots are lovely additions to the garden, but some have an insatiable desire to bite chunks out of every piece of ripening fruit they can get their beaks into. King parrots are the worst offenders at my place. They’ve become semi tame and are mostly unafraid of people, even rabid gardeners clapping their hands loudly and yelling threats of taxidermy.

Rabbits and hares are notorious pests for a reason. If they find a way into the vegie patch they’re even more destructive than possums, but it’s the damage they do to young fruit trees that really bothers me. They have a special preference for apples and love to chew the bark, especially during winter when the tree draws sugars back into the trunk.

Do I sound frustrated? Too flipping right I am! For years the garden was mostly pest free. Now, the animals have learnt that if they want a decent feed, it pays to hop or fly over to Thistlebrook – it’s a land overflowing with milk and honey!

If the animals were able to share, then good and well, but as cute as a possum or a rabbit appears, they’re not human-like characters from a children’s picture book and if my family is to eat, they need to be controlled. In this regard I have three options: eradication – killing the animals through various means; removal – trapping and relocating; or exclusion – preventing the animals from accessing the plants in the first place.

Before all the animal rights people get their knickers in a knot, I’m not about to reach for a shotgun. Besides the fact that I’d rather not kill any living entity, native animals are protected by law (for good reason), and I’m not quite hungry enough to kill rabbits and hares just yet. Trapping and relocating is a bit useless. Remove a native animal, create a vacuum, and nature will fill it up again. This leaves exclusion. To me this is the only feasible way of creating some kind of harmony between animals and a food producing gardener.

To some extent, fencing works very well. Our boundary is nearly all fenced in chicken wire, which keeps most of the hares and rabbits out, and the picket fence around the vegie patch does a sound job of keeping the blighters away from my precious crops. I know where some gaps are, however, and I need to make it a priority to block them up. Possums simply use timber fences as a thoroughfare, but netting fences, particularly those that are floppy at the top, tend to discourage them.

Electric fencing is brilliant if you can get it to work properly. I’ve been caught a couple of times where energisers have failed and the pests have simply pushed under what I believed was a hot wire. With better quality gear though, it’s very effective. For small areas, a couple of low wires is sufficient to keep the bunnies at bay.

Birds are a trickier proposition. Netting is one possibility, but it’s simply too difficult to work with nets directly thrown over a tree without some kind of supporting frame. I know of a few gardeners who’ve netted their entire orchard with good success, but this is beyond the budget of many. Exclusion bags are a cheap, effective option. These can be made at home or purchased from a company such as Green Harvest, and come in a range of materials including waxed paper, cloth, gauze, and flyscreen. The lighter materials protect the ripening fruit from fruit fly, but they won’t stop a hungry bird or possum. The heavier materials will.

As for bird scarers, chilli sprays and other home remedies, forget about it. They might work for a while, but animals are creatures of habit – once they get used to something, they’ll simply ignore it. But as my favourite poet Robert Frost wisely wrote, “good fences make good neighbours”. This just as true for our animal friends as it is for people.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 10th December 2011. Photo by Doug Beckers via flickr.com

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We seem to have slipped gradually into summer this year, but with the official start of the wet season now begun, the question in the back of everyone’s mind concerns the weather. Will we get a repeat dose of January’s floods? The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting above average rainfall and below average maximum temperatures for summer, courtesy of a weak La Nina pattern, and the Queensland Government has reacted to the BOM outlook by releasing water from Wivenhoe Dam. USQ’s Professor Roger Stone suggests taking a “cautious approach” and being “very risk adverse”.

Considering the events of last summer, it’s excellent advice. But for vegie gardeners, Professor Stone’s suggestion is a tough pill to swallow. In our corner of the planet, the frost-free months from December to May are the most productive of the year for growing and harvesting food. We’re lucky enough to be able to grow lots during winter as well, but summer and autumn are seasons of abundance, and I’ll bet my house that nearly every vegie grower in Toowoomba and on the Downs will be sowing and tending and harvesting with abandon.

If the season does prove to be wetter than average, fungal disease will again become public enemy number one, just as it was last summer. Vulnerable plants, particularly those in the Solanaceae (tomato) and Cucurbitaceae (pumpkin) families, will benefit to some extent from fungicide sprays, but be wary of going overboard and always follow a couple of golden rules.

First, remember that fungicides work best as a preventative, so keep an eye on the weather outlook and apply them in advance of a wet spell. Second, use the least toxic chemical available to do the job. A simple spray made from one part full cream milk to five parts water will help control powdery mildew if applied every week. For other fungal diseases, spraying organically approved copper hydroxide or wettable sulphur is the best way to prevent infection. Be aware that any metal based product will persist in the soil, so use them wisely.

Besides keeping an eye out for fungus, the other issue that needs attention in a wet season is soil fertility. Heavy rain leaches nutrients from the soil, making them unavailable to plants. It’s up to gardeners, therefore, to replace what is lost from the soil so that vegetable plants can grow freely. The starting point for fertility in any season is compost. During wet weather, the black gold is even more important than usual because it adds nutrients, and by regulating fluctuations in moisture levels, keeps those nutrients in the soil. Compost also encourages beneficial fungi, which will help fight any soil borne diseases that may develop. So get composting! From a garden’s perspective, decomposed organic matter is the best Christmas present you can offer.

In addition to compost, you’ll probably need to throw around some fertiliser, and perhaps some minerals. As usual, my advice is to go for a fertiliser that not only feeds plants, but helps improve your soil. Pelletised chook manure, sold in brands such as Organic Xtra and Dynamic Lifter, is ideal. Rotted horse, sheep or cow manure is also good, but never use it fresh – a couple of months worth of decomposition is vital.

Lime any beds that need sweetening. Use dolomite on black soils, regular garden lime on red soils. Dolomite contains magnesium, but because red soils are often naturally high in magnesium, adding more will only make them stickier. And for a quick boost, give leafy greens a fortnightly application of liquid fish emulsion. Seaweed extract used every couple of weeks won’t go astray either, providing trace elements and helping plants better cope with stress.

The soil is now warm enough for all summer plants, even the real heat lovers like eggplants and watermelon. Tomatoes, capsicum, chillies, corn, bush beans, climbing beans, pumpkin, squash, zucchini, cucumber and basil, can all go in, along with most herbs and edible flowers. Leafy greens such as lettuce, pak choy, mizuna and rocket are also do-able, but might need some shade on the hottest days.

No doubt the big garden centres will be selling lots of seedlings out of season. My tip is to ignore their seasonless approach to gardening by growing vegies from seed. At this time of year germination is quick and reliable, plus you’ll save yourself a packet, by growing a packet…if you get my drift. Enjoy summer, fill the vegie garden, but don’t work too hard. Take some time with friends and family, and when the heat’s on (or the family gets under your skin), find a shady spot to have a kip, knock back a cold bevvy or two, and do nothing but watch the world drift by.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 3rd December 2011. Photo by Justin Russell, scarlet runner beans, Summerfield, Cabarlah.

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Fragar peach tree in spring

Stone fruit season is here, and I’m feeling just a tad peachy! My love of apples aside, there is something very special about picking a softball sized peach off the tree, biting straight into the sun warmed flesh, and getting such an explosion of juice that it drips off your chin. Makes you feel like a summer loving kid all over again.

Ironically, very few kids in our society have eaten a properly ripe peach. The reality of our food system is that soft-fleshed fruit must be picked before the point of ripeness to withstand the rigours of handling and transportation. As a consequence, stone fruit purchased from the supermarket rarely has enough time on the tree to accumulate real depth of character.

To experience stone fruit at its best, you either need to source fruit directly from a local orchardist, or better still, grow it yourself. Only then can you access the most flavoursome varieties, and pick them at their peak of ripeness. The good news is that stone fruit is among the easiest of all deciduous fruiting trees to grow. With the exception of cherries and European plums, which do best in high chill districts like Stanthorpe and Oakey, peaches, nectarines, Japanese plums and apricots all do very well in Toowoomba and along the ranges. Downs black soil presents an issue for peaches and nectarines, which like good drainage, but it’s good for plums and apricots. Pollination can be an issue for plums and cherries, so it’s a good idea to check the requirements for various species with a good quality nursery.

Birds and possums love stone fruit, but can largely be controlled through netting, however Queensland fruit fly absolutely adores stone fruit. If given half a chance it will decimate your entire crop, so some form of control is vital. On free standing trees, I use a combination of exclusion bags that slip over the ripening fruit, and Eco-Naturalure, a certified organic product that lures and kills both the male and female flies.

If the fruit appears to be “mummified” and is covered in a greyish-brown mould, you’ve got brown rot. This is the most serious of few fungal diseases affecting stone fruit, and can be prevented by binning any diseased fruit and spraying during late winter with either copper hydroxide (preferable to copper oxychloride) or lime sulphur, both of which are approved inputs under the Australian Organic Standard.

Bacterial diseases such as gummosis and silver leaf can be an issue. As always, prevention is easier than the cure, so do most pruning during the warmer months so that wounds heal quickly, and always sterilise your tools. I simply carry around a spray bottle containing metho, and give my tools a spray between every tree. This ensures that disease isn’t spread from one tree to another.

I often get asked about pruning, and my answer is that it can be a simple or elaborate as you like. Unpruned trees left to their own devices will flower and fruit just fine, but to maximise the health of the tree and the quality of your crop it’s a good idea to do some shaping. In the first couple of seasons concentrate on creating a framework of branches. The open vase (or goblet) shape is still a good basic structure for a stone fruit tree, but in the longer term, pruning depends on a knowledge of how various trees produce fruiting buds – you don’t want to be cutting off potential fruiting wood!

As a general rule, cherries and European plums form spurs on two-year old wood, Japanese plums and apricots fruit on a combination of spurs and new growth, while peaches and nectarines fruit solely on new wood that grew in the previous summer. Without overcomplicating things too much, peaches and nectarines benefit from an annual prune in late summer to remove about a third of the existing growth, which will allow new fruiting wood to form in time for the following spring. For more detailed info, a book I highly recommend is Pruning and Training,by Christopher Brickell and David Joyce. Louis Glowinski’s Complete Book of Fruit Growing in Australia is also excellent.

In my view, there’s absolutely no need to sacrifice flavour on the altar of convenience. The best tasting peach I’ve ever had wasn’t purchased from a shop. It was from a ‘Fragar’ tree growing in my garden and I’ll remember the fragrance and taste until the day I die. I’m hopelessly biased, but my advice is simply to grow your own food, for the sake of yourself, your family, and the planet.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 26th November 2011. Photo by Justin Russell.

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Extreme weather always produces a botanical surprise packet or two. During the long drought, camellias surprised all and sundry with their ability to withstand persistent warm weather without much moisture around their roots. They may not have thrived, but most established camellias survived to tell the tale. A similar thing happened during last summer’s floods.

By January, the soil in my garden was completely sodden. Hampton is renowned for its deep, free draining soil, but the rain was so relentless over so many months that puddles had formed on the surface of the soil and, for the first time in my experience, were hanging around longer than a day or two. I expected the worst. I assumed there would be little chance that the various drought tolerant plants in my garden would survive the wet soil, and sure enough, many rotted away to a slimy mess.

Of all the plants that I expected to kick the bucket, lavender and rosemary were both at the top of the list. The theory goes that plants of a Mediterranean origin dislike an acid soil, loathe summer humidity, and absolutely abhor having wet feet. As if to prove the theory dead on target, a favourite ‘Tuscan Blue’ rosemary hedge slowly yellowed and died. I was certain the various lavender plants in my garden would do the same. But guess what? They lived. Every single one of them.

Some male gardeners think lavender is a poncey plant that should only be grown by women wearing pretty floral skirts. What rubbish! Lavender is beautiful to look at it, but in my experience it’s anything but some kind of delicate show pony. In fact, lavender has proven to be one of the toughest, most adaptable, and most reliable plants in my garden, and the fact that it survived the wettest summer for forty years only adds to its reputation.

I’ve got five different types of lavender growing in five different parts of the garden that differ markedly in their individual micro-climates. Out the front, there’s English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) planted in a bed that is totally exposed to the elements. It’s thriving. In the cottage garden near the front door, there’s an Italian lavender (L. stoechas) planted next to a hot concrete path. Thriving. Out back, a Spanish lavender hedge (a different L. stoechas) is planted at the base of a west facing shed wall that gets loads of rain run-off. Thriving. In an east facing bed there are a couple of French lavender plants (L. dentata) growing at the base of a rock wall. Thriving.

I don’t do anything special to the plants. They receive no fertiliser or supplemental irrigation. I’ve never limed the soil where they are planted, or improved the texture. In fact the only care the plants receive is a light prune after flowering to promote another flush of flowers, plus a half yearly mulch of sugar cane to prevent weeds from taking hold. That’s it. I’m not some kind of plant magician relying on tricks to grow healthy plants, yet my lavender is doing brilliantly. If you fall for the lie that pretty plants are weak, and not worthy of a male gardener’s affection, you’re a fool.

Scientific evidence provides a clear indication that the climate in our part of the world is gradually becoming more extreme. The booms and the busts are getting more intense, and the oscillation between one extreme and the other, more violent. In response, we’re going to need to throw out the old rule book about what plants typically thrive in Toowoomba and the Downs, and replace it with a new plant palette that contains a mix of species tough enough to thrive in a wide range of conditions.

To do this we’ll need to get beyond the spoon fed mentality that plagues so much of our society, and get into the habit of closely observing our gardens, making notes (mental or otherwise) about the plants that seem to be big winners or epic losers in extreme weather events, and then share the information we collect with other gardens. Swap stories and cuttings over the back fence. Cook produce from top performing plants with family and friends. Inspire new gardeners with your passion for climate change ready plants.

Five years ago, I would have confidently predicted that camellias would struggle to survive the drought. In January I thought it was a dead-cert that my lavender would end up a victim of root rot. I was happily proven wrong on both counts. Plants never cease to amaze me, and in a future climate that’s bound to be more unpredictable than any of us has experienced, we’ll need all the surprise packets we can get our hands on.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 19th November 2011. Photo by Justin Russell, French lavender.

Don’t forget to visit our new site The Radish, edible gardening from roots to fruits!!

In recent years there has been a big rise in the number of people growing food in containers. While it’s hardly a new trend, container growing is a practice that’s gaining in popularity for a number of key reasons. More and more people are choosing to rent rather than buy a property, average land sizes are shrinking, and the population is aging. Growing food in containers is an effective way of reaping a harvest without the need for a traditional vegetable garden or orchard.

Container growing has some clear advantages over gardening at ground level. First and foremost, containers are mobile. When you move, it’s possible to simply put your containers on the back of a truck or trailer, and take them to their new home. Containers require little space. You’d be surprised how much food a container garden can produce from a paved courtyard or a balcony. And for those who find working a garden at ground level difficult, containers can be a god-send, enhancing ability rather than focussing on disability.

But it’s important to realise that container growing isn’t without some pitfalls. Pot plants require more care than those grown in soil. They typically need more water, to the point that if you forget to irrigate on a hot summer’s day, some of your plants are likely to either become badly dehydrated or die. But on the other hand, if poorly drained containers become waterlogged, plants can die from having “wet feet”.

Another easily overlooked issue is that container grown plants can be less nutritious than those grown in well managed soil. As they grow, plants draw nutrients from the soil and transfer them to their leaves, roots, or fruits, which then get passed on to us as we eat them. Healthy soil equals healthy plants, equals healthy food equals healthy people.

By contrast with well managed soil, a premium commercial potting mix is a soil-less medium that’s usually made primarily from composted pine bark and sand, with the possible addition of components such as peat, coco-fibre, slow release fertiliser, wetting agent, and water crystals. Potting mix is usually pasteurised using steam. This kills all the pathogens that might have been in the mix, but also destroys any good bacteria that help plants take up essential nutrients. As a general rule then, you’ll get more nutritional benefit from food grown in soil than food grown in potting mix.

Savvy container growers have cottoned on to this fact and make their own nutrient rich potting mix. Traditional gardeners sometimes use the loam-based John Innes formulas that are still the standard in Britain, and others modify a commercial mix with additions like home made compost and rotted manure. The idea with all of these approaches is that nutrients are made freely available to food producing plants, and subsequently, to people. To keep plants well fed in the longer term, I use organic slow release fertiliser or pelletised chook manure, and for quick growing vegies, nothing beats liquid fertiliser made from fish emulsion or worm juice.

When it comes time to contain your mix, there are dozens of different options. Choose what suits your style and personality, but if in doubt, keep it simple, and classic. There are all kinds of containers in my garden, but I have a preference for half wine barrels and those that are made from traditional unglazed, unsealed terracotta. I can’t emphasise enough how important it is to avoid wet feet – many plants are just as likely to die from too much water as they are too little. Always make sure a container has adequate drainage holes in the base, and only use a saucer for those plants that thrive in damp conditions. Pot feet are usually helpful.

Beyond that, you’re limited only by your imagination. Pretty much any vegetable can be be raised in containers, including those that are grown for their roots, and lots of fruiting plants are suitable as well. Go for dwarf trees or those grafted onto dwarfing rootstock, fruiting bushes, canes, and perennials. And of course, remember to include herbs in your container garden. Most do just as well in a pot as they do in the ground and some perform even better.

A lack of space or mobility doesn’t need to be impediments to growing your own food. If all you can manage is a pot of mixed herbs grown on a sunny window sill, that’s absolutely brilliant. Grow those herbs with pride, and cook them with love, and guess what – you’ll join the ranks of gardeners around the world who’ve discovered the incredible joys of growing their own food.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 12th November 2011. Photo by Justin Russell, potted Eureka lemon.

Today marks the fifth anniversary of Secret Garden! For those who’ve been reading this column from the very beginning, you might remember that I started with an article on Jacarandas on November 4, 2006. Here we are, 260 columns later, and I feel like my enthusiasm for gardening is stronger than ever. A bit of rain helps. A lot.

Back in 2006, our part of the world was in the grip of arguably the most severe drought in living memory. You’ll recall that Toowoomba’s three dams were rapidly decreasing to what became critically low levels, creeks that had never been dry turned into muddy gullies, and the landscape looked as though someone had flown overhead with a massive blowtorch. The place was drier than a Smith’s chip.

How the cycled has turned. During the drought, it was a daily struggle to keep vulnerable plants alive. Now with some moisture in the soil and perpetually full tanks, gardening is fun again. I’ve absolutely relished the opportunity to get in lots of new plants while the goings good, knowing that one day, drought will return. Hopefully by then, roots will have penetrated deep into the earth and we gardeners will be better prepared than we were last time around.

Of course a break in the drought hasn’t been the only change in five years. On a personal note, my wife Kylie gave birth to our second child not long before I started writing Secret Garden, and our youngest son Fergus was born in 2008. So I’m now gardening for five, instead of three. My love of apples led me to start a heritage fruit tree nursery in 2009, and just last month I launched a new website called The Radish. It’s about “edible gardening from roots to fruits”, and you’re invited to check it out at www.theradish.com.au.

Speaking of edibles, by far the biggest and best change in the gardening world over the last five years is the move toward home grown food. Vegie patches are springing up everywhere, and for the first time since World War 2, sales of vegetable seed are outstripping sales of flower seed. Not just by a bit, mind you, but by a factor of three to one. In anyone’s language, that’s what you might call a tectonic shift, and the best thing about the change is that it’s happened with very little prompting from politicians. The Grow It Yourself revolution is a people’s movement. It has developed for reasons that politics seems incapable of addressing, chief among them a desire for good, honest food and a primal need to get back to the basics of providing for yourself, your family and friends.

There’s no doubt we’re facing some serious issues at the moment. Global warming, rampant consumerism, peak oil and financial inequality are massive problems in need of solutions. But when it comes to the other elephant in the room – food – nothing motivates quite as powerfully as satisfaction. To sow a seed, watch it germinate, nurture the seedling until maturity, reap a harvest, and then cook and eat the food with family and friends is one of the most deeply fulfilling activities a human being can undertake. If the food is prepared well and tastes fantastic, all the better.

Thanks to Steve Etwell the rest of The Chronicle team for your help over the last five years. But most importantly, my sincere appreciation must go to you, the reader. It’s been an incredible privilege to write Secret Garden, and the thing that’s made the experience so worthwhile is that barely a week goes by without a reader saying something nice about the column. In fact, one self described non-gardener wrote to me a few months ago saying he reads the weekend Chronicle for two reasons – Secret Garden and the classifieds. That takes the cake. Thankyou all for your letters and emails. Your support is very humbling.

At times when writing Secret Garden I’ve been sitting behind my computer, wracking my brain for an idea with just an hour to go until deadline. Other times, the words flow quicker than the Condamine in flood. Could there be another 260 columns in the offing? Time will tell. The great British gardening writer Christopher Lloyd wrote his Guardian newspaper column for 17 years until his death in 2006 aged 84. I don’t expect to write Secret Garden until the day I die, but I do believe there is something new to learn about gardening every week and I’m looking forward to sharing my thoughts with you in the days to come. For now though, it’s time to get back out into the garden. When all is said and done, that’s where the real magic happens. Catch you next Saturday.

First published in the Toowoomba Chronicle 5th November 2011. Photo by Justin Russell, vegie garden at Thistlebrook.